Maison Martin Margiela Ready-to-Wear Fall-winter 2009-2010 Photos: Giovanni Giannoni
From dark to light, from sharp to hazy, a morphing, mysterious and ambiguous, contrasted and lyrical, flows on a multi-level path of stairs and angles, a clear light following the women and their movement through the space.
At first, the body revealed in its bareness, covers itself little by little, step by step with scales and levels, a geometrical composition on and around the body in a multi-dimensional approach. Much like an architectural construction, an assemblage of facets, like a Kapla game, foldings and pop-ups are placed on and around the body and create effects of multi lengths, anatomic backs, elbow and shoulder structures, geometrical shapes, asymmetry, all in a very angular and sharp cut.
Slowly the sharpness smoothes into a more elongated silhouette, stretched upwards, with “cocoon” like tops and high waist; or downwards, with drop crotch and extended length trousers.
The depth of the dark colors and angular shapes softens with touches of light and sparkle, foamy volumes of boiled wool loops and tape bands fur, as the silhouettes become lighter and flimsy, moving like spume, almost ethereal …