Gems from the ocean

Georges Hobeika RTW S/S 2017

Diala Aschkar, Art Director at Orient Palms, Paris, France

Georges Hobeika’s Spring-Summer 2017 Ready-to-wear collection takes us into a journey of oceanic discovery and enchantment, a lyrical expedition with rich variations. First we dive into the mysteries of the deep ocean with its exotic creatures and aquatic plants in the coral reefs that inspire the color palette and embroideries of the collection. We resurface, breathing the blossoming of the seaside poetic flowers, flowers being the signature in Georges Hobeika’s work. The waves lull us on a bed of sea foam patterned lace. And at dawn, we are lost in the dreamy gold and silver reflections on the great ocean, hence the black fabrics and golden beads.

Let’s start with a magical, fairy-like vision: a nymph in a water green dress with violet anemones, white star fishes and iridescent droplets of white pearls on translucent tulle, that creates an image of serenity.

The false twins below differ in cut and structure yet they share the same colors and ornamental aspect. One dress has an A-line, tea-length silhouette of tulle. Its strapless top has curved, glossed stripes of crêpe looking like waves. The other dress is asymmetrical with a one-shoulder-cut neckline, and a high split on the skirt.

An overlay of fascinating sea oysters, anemones and corals in sequins, beads and pearls are laid on an icy cold black. Their golden and silvery colors with outbursts of raspberry, blue, violet and emerald green contrast with the dark fabric and look like a paradise hidden in the depths of the ocean. Georges Hobeika’s beautiful initial sketch — presented here for the first time — perfectly expresses the wonder and vitality of the theme.

  • Original drawing by Georges Hobeika
    © Courtesy of Maison Georges Hobeika

Below, on the left, the play on different tones of violet and fabric textures connotes the nuances of the waves, waves of tulle and lace showered with pale gold sequins like glimmering sun rays. The short dress in the middle has corals cascading like a necklace with flowery lace all around. On the right is a dress that looks like a garden breeze with the intricate floral motifs and transparent tulle making it ethereal.

The bouffant tulle dress has discreet ton sur ton embroidery, leaving the touch of colors to the embellished accessories: bag, shoes and jewelry. Next to it, a white short laced dress is enlivened with embroideries and pearls in blue, violet, purple and green plants. In the same range of colors, on the right, a sleek coat displays a powerful motif of sea horses, leaves and flowers.

Continuing on the fresh note, two romantic princess dresses are pure visions of Spring. The strapless pair work well together: the white has red, pink and green embroidery and pearls. The other has vibrant red embroidery and sequins that blur the line between the intense red of the bodice and the raspberry pink of the flowing skirt.

Bursting in lush Red and raspberry lace, the dress below invites to gourmandise. Its mysterious coral reef plants, looking like sea buckthorns berries and pink oleander, are embroidered abundantly with silk threads, pearls and sequins.

The two dresses below share the same mermaid allure and fluidity. On the left, the pink and red gradient transparencies evoke the translucent corals.

Another play on high contrast: a pitch black jumpsuit boasts elegant bright pinks and olive green sea horses and flowers. A cap sleeved, waist-length top, looking quite architectural, attracts the attention with the powerfully laid motif of a star fish with flowers and leaves.

Glitter on these black dresses creates the image of moonlight and scintillating stars mirrored as shimmering reflections on the waves.

Fitted at the bodice as they flow out to the ground, with almost see-through tops, this design comes in two variations. A sugar-white-hue combined with a soft-rose-shade, flowing with swirly peach and coral undertone decorations. It is also simulated in onyx-black with pure, moon-white flower branches dropped fairly upon the dress. Both designs capture light; with sunrise and coral shades, or with a deep-dark-tranquility which glimmers in night tones.

And of course wonderful dresses in the most known reef corals’ color: Coral! With their lyrical flowers, they remind of a Japanese garden. On the asymmetrical dress the dreamy branches are cast from one shoulder, while they swirl down all around the other one. The short dress has a profusion of flowers stemming from the waist, looking like a bouquet held by the bow belt.

“Sea foam flowers”. This is what I would call the mesmerizing lace pattern embracing the body like waves. The bodice on the left shows subtelties in the layering: a see-through tulle revealing the continuing pattern while serving as a base for a neckline-necklace of glitters that spread, vanishing down on the bodice in a scattered manner.

We hope you enjoyed drifting away with us in Georges Hobeika’s sea of wonders. This was a selection from the collection, so we invite you to discover the rest of Hobeika’s ocean gems.