From ocean to shore Zuhair Murad S/S 2019
Diala Aschkar, Art Director at Orient Palms, France

From ocean to shore

Zuhair Murad S/S 2019

The aquatic theme was very present for this Summer 2019 season, but it was sublimated by the talented Zuhair Murad. Set in the spectacular Hotel Potocki the Haute Couture show evoked the beauty of the deep and the frenzy of the ocean surface through 59 shimmering outfits, covered with seashell, wave, and frothy ocean-foam patterns. The catwalk floor looked surreal, painted in blue and golden motifs as if to immerse Murad’s sea nymphs who passed by in flowing fabrics, and (for many) with a train continuing the fluidity of the aquatic apparitions.

The train was a major element, presented in every possible way — shoulder trains, sleeve trains, asymmetric capes, over-skirts... The style was a mix of lavishness and modernity, of romanticism and a sexy-rock attitude infused by the 80’s-inspired silhouettes — sharp shoulders, low V-necks. The wet-hair look and the minimum make-up exuded a fresh young appeal. In terms of colors, the procession’s order of appearance progressed from dark to lighter blues, then pink, violet, white, grey and silver, as to evoke a journey starting from the ocean dark depth and rising to the luminous surface.

“Aquatic Flamenca” could be the name of this lovely turquoise dress with big blue flowers on its skirt and embroideries resembling ripples on water. Even the belt buckle — as for many outfits in the collection — has a scallop shape.

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The navy lace chantilly dress or the iridescent silk gazar ’bleu pétrole’ seemed like pure liquid.

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Two very glamorous yet modern looks that would perfectly fit a star singer on the red carpet are the baltic green and blue embroidered short jumpsuits featuring both a magnificent draped overskirt train.

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Bodysuits appeared as little jewels! One was in gradients of pink and coral. The other was all white, topped by a translucent beaded caftan.

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Long pleated chiffon dresses recalled shells in a ravishing array of rainbow colors, or in iridescent silver.

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In moonlight pink or in blue, sensuality was dripping from these fully embroidered dresses with cross-over asymmetric straps or cape, side slits, and shining pleated chiffon.

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Architectural modern lines sublimate these sand, silver or navy colored dresses.

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I was subjugated again by more architectural wonders in other style motifs and beading.

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Probably the most exuberant outfit of the collection is this short Caribbean blue dress with its asymmetrical neckline and collar and playful undulating waves and sea life motifs!

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These figure-hugging sequined numbers look like second skin for mermaids, covering them with surreal waves and frothy sea-foam motifs.

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Murad frames here his figures with seaweed-looking shapes: puffed sleeves in ice pink tones or a ruffled sand vest. The silver iridescent jumpsuit presenting a bare midriff and open split pants has a disco vibe.

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In a gorgeous ode to the ocean, a “sea” of chiffon devastated the catwalk with a dress in shades of blue or a cape in gradients going from powder pink to lilac.

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I loved these iridescent illusions as if dressed in sun rays, one in a white jumpsuit, and the other, in a pink crop top with a long skirt and cape fully embroidered tone on tone.

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A goddess rises from the sea with an effervescence of gold fish scale embroidered on a silk tulle sheath.

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Closing the show, the bride of the sea, shined with silver and golden crystals spread on her dress, cascading veil and headpiece.

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