Atelier Gustavo Lins

Atelier Gustavo Lins Couture Fall-winter 2011-2012

For his new 017 collection, Gustavo Lins has constructed his designs out of fabric offcuts, reorganising them into a mosaic, and it is this «opus incertum» assemblage that dictates each form and swirls and tapers it on the bias. The shirts, jackets, dresses and coats were all cut directly from the fabric, without prior sketches or patterns. The only pieces calculated to the millimetre taking body measurements are a combination dress in silk jersey, another in oversewn leather offcuts, and a clinging trousers in fine silk Georgette crêpe, assembled at the back by an oversewn leather thong like a stocking hem. For the «tailleur» style pieces, an apron dress constructed out of oversewn washi offcuts, a kabuki coat in black washi, and a «vintage montage» suit in Japanese crêpe. The dresses, all with tilted geometry, are either sheath, overcoat, chasuble or silk square-type. The scarf dresses are printed with an exclusive painted motif, and constructed with perfectly straight lengths of fabric. Their drapery is clasped and raised by leather thongs. The accessories have been given great autonomy, and the choice of woven red copper and fox fur or mink is luminous and luxurious. And for the show’s backdrop, Federico Cimatti has conceived and directed a film describing the construction of these designs and the collection as a whole, with his revolving camerawork evoking the emblematic Gustavo spiral.

Apron dress in black washi worn over a high collar white poplin shirt.
Overcoat in black washi worn over a dress in deep sea blue printed silk, clinging trousers in silk georgette crêpe, assembled at the back by an overseen leather thong like a stocking hem.
Vintage montage’ suit in Japanese crêpe with a leather collar.
Chasuble dress in cashmere off cuts put together by one thousand and one top stitches, with a cape effect worn over a white poplin shirt and silk georgette trousers.
Long black silk crepe dress with a train held up by a leather string worn with a black and red fox boa.
Long sheath dress "bulbe" in printed "drippings" iris blue silk worn with a mink off cuts and topstitched leather coat, matching printed lining.
Blouse made with topstitched cashmere off cuts, silk satin apron skirt.
Scarf dress in printed silk "drippings" yellow Vermeer worn with silk georgette light dress.
Scarf in silk mousseline worn over clinging trousers in silk georgette, felt velvet collar clasped by a red copper necklace.
Silk cape jacket held by a large red copper necklace worn over clinging trousers in silk georgette with an over sewn leather thong.
"Grand noeud" dress in black taffetas with yellow leather worn with leather stitched off cuts dress and clinging trousers in silk georgette.